"Pink slime" - sounds disgusting, doesn't it? And yet Americans have been eating it for some time. If you've been following the media buzz lately, you'll be aware that "pink slime" is a derogatory term coined by a USDA microbiologist in 2002 (that's right, 2002 - pink slime was approved for use in 2001) to refer to the filler made from beef scraps and connective tissue. The recovered product is heated, processed, and treated with ammonia gas to kill contaminating organisms before being ground, pressed into blocks and flash frozen. The product is considered safe for use by the USDA, although other countries such as Canada and the United Kingdom don't allow it.
The controversy seems to have begun with a series of news broadcasts by ABC last month that featured a "whistle-blower" and "shocking revelations". The public outcry was so great that almost immediately major grocery stores such as Safeway and Vons and fast food outlets such as Taco Bell and MacDonald's announced that they were discontinuing the use of the additive. The result was that in a matter of weeks the manufacturer of the filler, Beef Products, Inc. announced that it was suspending operations at three of its four plants but would continue to pay workers for 60 days. Yesterday, AFA, one of the largest beef processors in the US filed for bankruptcy.
So what's going on here? I'm not debating the merits of this particular additive but rather looking at this from a crisis management perspective. The use of "lean, finely textured beef" has been going on for more than ten years, with estimates that over 70% of the ground beef sold in US supermarkets contain the additive. The product is made from beef, admittedly of low quality, and, one could argue, makes more efficient use of the meat. It can only make up 15% of the product. Ammonia, which seems to make people cringe, is a naturally-occurring product and found in beef. As early as April of 2011, celebrity chef Jamie Oliver premiered his second season of Food Revolution with an expose on pink slime. So why now?
I think there are several reasons for the immediate and savage public outcry. First, there's what I call the "ick" factor - this just sounds plain disgusting to the average American. (One can but hope that they never do an expose on sausage making.) The term "pink slime" contributes to this sense of this somehow being something unsafe for human consumption. It's catchy and it resonates. Secondly, you have a major network breaking the story and keeping the focus on in it for several weeks. Third, there is the whiff of scandal - the USDA undersecretary who approved the use of the filler left to join the board at BPI and made over a million dollars during her tenure there. Finally, there was no labeling and this is probably the worst thing for the average American - we don't like to feel like we've been cheated.
One wonders, though, if we'd still be eating pink slime if the USDA had required "lean, finely textured beef" to be noted on product labeling.